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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.